Skimming over Paint

by Paul Woolley
(Kettering)

Hi Paul,
The video and course are excellent (and for anyone reading this, are both value for money and highly recommended. As a result, I've completed several walls and one ceiling with (I think) very good results.
I have some questions about skimming over paint. I've read various opinions about priming the walls and am thoroughly confused. The various paint types appear to be:
1.emulsion
2.vinyl silk
3 satin finish
4.eggshell
5.gloss
6. distemper (I don't even want to go there!)
After removing any loose paint the main options seem to be treat them with a PVA solution; use a bonding agent like WBA; score the paint; don't score the paint; overboard the wall etc.
I've recently skimmed half a bathroom with paint on the walls. All I did was PVA them. (I really hope this was correct as some of the wall will be tiled over and I'd hate them to fall off!)
If the different types of paint are treated differently, how do you identify the type as some are very similar.
Thanks


Answer

Hi Paul

Firstly to put your mind at ease what you did was correct.
You don't have to worry what type of paint it is unless it is a distemper type but as you say the chances of this are slim so we don't need to worry. (If the paint is powdery then worry - if not don't!)

So really apart from this it doesn't matter what type of paint you have - the main concern is that it is properly adhered to the wall. If not scrape the loose off.

The confusion surrounding the different types of paint can be due to the suction they provide. For example a simple contract emulsion will still provide some suction but an eggshell will not. If there is no suction the plaster has a tendency to slide around on the paint, so to counteract this mix some sand or multi - finish into the PVA solution to provide a slurry type mixture that when dries will leave a textured surface. If as with eggshell there is no suction then the PVA solution will need to be thicker.

If unsure start with a small amount of normal 'milky' solution of PVA with a little sand or plaster in, then if it runs down the wall due to no suction then keep thickening with more PVA.


Paul

Skimming over plaster

by Anthony
(Swansea)

Hi,

We recently attempted to skim a ceiling at home, which could have turned out much better! We want to go over it again (it became so dry as it was a hot day we couldn't get the second coat on in time). Do we need to pva again on the now-dry plaster or is it better to get the whole lot off and start again (not sure how easy that would be but I am guessing not very)?

Will appreciate your advice.

Thanks,

Anthony

Answer

Hi Anthony,

That's fine just to apply PVA and go over it again. Two coats of PVA will ensure there is little suction so that the new plaster you put on does not dry too quickly.

Paul

Skimming and 'unibonding'

by Nat
(East of england)

A plasterer has quoted me £100 to 'skim' and 'unibond' (which I assume is the same as 'calking') my living room ceiling, approx 18ft x 10ft. Is this a reasonable price? Or is it way too high? How long would this process take? I do NOT want to attempt this myself. Help!

Answer
Hi Nat

'Unibond' is the glue used to ensure the new plaster adheres properly. £100 is a fair price for this area, definitely not too high. This would take half a day - allowing for setting up (dust sheets etc), applying the PVA or 'unibond', and then plastering.

Paul

applying pva

by michael
(blyth northumberland)

should you allow pva to dry fully or keep it tacky or wet before applying plaster, as there have been times when i can't stop plaster drying out to fast

Answer
The PVA can either have fully dried or be tacky. If the paster is drying too quickly then you need to apply at least another coat of PVA.

Paul